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Wednesday, April 05, 2006
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Review on "The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes"
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Hi everyone,
I have gotten andy's CD rom last weekend. That's fast! Thanks to Andy.
Well, I have been going through the materials and found tons of knowledge from this "Clothing Encyclopedia".
As you know, my focus for this blog is mainly on Cuffs. But nevertheless, I must share with you a summary of what tips and useful information on what I have learnt from Andy's encyclopedia. I can tell you if you really want to feel good, do yourself a favour -> Dress good!
Just to pick a few topics for you.
DRESS SHIRTS
The word “shirt” comes from Old English “scyrte” which developed into the Middle English word “shirte” meaning “a short garment”.
The best dress shirts are cut full in the body. A full cut allows more freedom of movement.
This doesn't mean that if you have wide shoulders and a very narrow waist you shouldn't find a dress shirt style that fits your body. You can also have a shirt easily tailored to take in an excess material. Just don't opt for the skin tight look!
A quality dress shirt is long. It extends at least nine inches below your trouser top.
Because of the length, the shirt will have at least seven buttons on the front placket.
Quality shirt makers do not skimp on buttons.
Original bespoke (custom made) dress shirts had NO breast pocket. Pockets on shirts begin
showing up as the waistcoat (vest) went out of style. But a gentleman would not use it, even
if one comes with the shirt. Brooks Brothers didn’t add a pocket to their button-down shirt until 1965! Your pen (and glasses, tickets, calculator, etc.) belong in an inside suit jacket pocket! And now that you know, you won’t need that pocket protector anymore. If a shirt has two pockets, it is NOT a dress shirt!
Andy’s tailor tip: If you find a shirt you love, but it has the double buttons (“size adjustment”) on the shirt cuff see which button works best, and cut the other one off! And NEVER, NEVER wear a short-sleeved shirt with a tie!!!!
EYE WEAR
General tips
Other people need to see your eyes for best communication.
Frame should cover your eyebrow.
Eye should be in the center of the frame.
Try for balance when choosing the style of frames to fit your face shape.
Frame color should harmonize with your eye, hair and skin tones or you can go with gold,copper or bronze metals for warm tone skin colors, and silver for cool skin colors.
Think of glasses as fashion items. Try adding to your collection and wearing different glasses for different events.
Single powered lens corrects only one vision deficiency like nearsightedness (you can see near but not far), farsightedness (you can see far but not near) and astigmatism. They can be for full-time wear or part-time use (like reading glasses). People with multiple vision deficiencies require multifocal lenses.
Special note: Computer glasses – If you are on a computer more than four hours per day, you may want to consider a separate pair of eyewear, since the focal distance for looking at the screen of a computer is different than farsighted or nearsighted vision.
BELTS
Not only do belts hold up your pants but they provide an element to make a fashion statement.
Belts do get noticed! The eye is automatically drawn to it since belts are at the center of your body, and usually darker than the rest of your clothes.
The word belt is from the Middle English, and Old English; akin to Old High German balz; both from Latin balteus.
1. The edge of the belt buckle, the edge of your shirt and the edge of you pants fly should all line up vertically. All these edges should face to your right.
2. Never wear a belt and braces (suspenders) at the same time, unless you’re playing a bumpkin in a film role, or you want to look insecure.
3. Two circumstances require braces instead of a belt.Under a vest a belt sometimes protrudes ruining the smooth line of a vest, and with formal wear braces are traditional.
WALLETS
Wallets or billfolds are an accessory used to carry money, credit cards and a few photographs.
You need a very thin, top grain leather or exotic skin wallet.
Ergonomic fashion fundamental – Two smaller wallets carried one each in the front pockets instead of the rear. It will save back strain and pain. When you sit on a large billfold pressure is placed on your sciatic nerves and muscles. Many back problems have been related to this practice.
There is another advantage to carrying two small billfolds in your front pockets. The first wallet keeps your credit cards, important stuff and some cash. The other has some cash you don’t mind “donating” New York Style to muggers.
CUFF LINKS
Cuff links are usually a small ornamental device, generally a pair of linked buttons or one button that fastens with a bar or shank, inserted through buttonholes to keep the cuff of a shirt or blouse closed. Cuff buttons took the place of cuff strings in the 17th century, and the word link appeared as early as 1788.
Cuff Links are largely a matter of personal taste and expression. The double-faced cuff links are the dressiest since they look equally well from both sides of the cuff.
STYLES of CUFF LINKS:
(from most elegant to least dressy)
Double-faced are links with two identical faces attached with a metal link. You push one face through the “button” holes of the cuff.
These are the dressiest.
Snap on are made up of two separate pieces that snap together.
Push-through -- This style has a bulbous or globular end opposite the showy side, which is
pushed through the cuff holes.
Also see Silk Knots below.
Hinged back -- This type has a bar, which can be aligned perpendicular to the link then
opened parallel, after it’s pushed though the cuff, to secure the link in place.
Stirrup are cufflinks that wrap around the shirt cuff. Some consider these garish.
Silk knots have two knots linked together with and made of silk; one of the knots is pushed
through the cuff hole to hold the cuff together.
Silk knots are the least dressy style.
CARE:
Store your cuff links in a felt lined jewelry case or use any other method that keeps the links from coming in contact with each other to prevent scratching.
If you don’t have a jewelry case just keep them in the felt lined box they were packed in when you purchased them. Of if they didn’t come in a box (where did you say you got these cuff links?) try storing them in a soft cloth in a drawer.
Of course there are many other topics which are covered in this encylopedia CD like: What styles of shoes you should wear,watches guide,how to tie a bowtie,socks guide, Tips, secrets,and common sense to teach you how to put together a clothing ensemble that will make you look great,sport jackets,what is the rule of seven,fabic production,clothing care,trousers guide,even swimming trunk and underwear.
In addition, each chapter have a history section. Where does all these dressing items originated from? Aren't you interested to know? Nowsaday people have treat their clothing accessories as a necessity, no longer knows or care for the reason behind why they wear, how they wear it, what should they wear for different occasion.
I have to agree with Andy that "What you wear makes a difference in how you influence the world. Why not take advantage of this. Since 90% of us is covered with clothing, the clothing you choose makes a significant impact and one area where we can effect the greatest impression."
Speical thanks to Andy Gilchrist!
You can reach Andy's Web site here ==> AskAndyAboutClothes.com
Adwin
"Cast a World of Cuffs" |
posted
by creat3cp @ Wednesday, April 05, 2006
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